Use the app to verify your washer clears the doorway before delivery day — dimensions, dolly height, and all.
Whether it fits comes down to the measurements most people skip.
Real openings run about 1 to 2 inches under the labeled size, and a single inch can flip the result. Check your own measurements before you buy or move.
Verdicts compare all six item orientations against the space using verified building standards. See our methodology
“Checked my mattress before ordering. Tight fit, but it worked with the door removed.” — Online shopper
Measure smart
Four numbers decide nearly every fit check. Get these right and the rest follows.
Don't make these
Most “it didn't fit” stories trace back to one of these oversights.
Frequently asked
On front-load washers, the door can usually be removed by unscrewing 2–4 hinge bolts. This can reduce the total depth by 2–3 inches. Top-load washers have a hinged lid that folds flat and rarely causes clearance issues. Measure your clear opening accurately before deciding. Keep all hardware for reinstallation.
01Washer water supply hoses and the drain hose add 2–4 inches behind the machine. During delivery, these are usually disconnected, so depth during doorway transit is the bare machine depth. But for final placement, ensure 4–6 inches of space behind the washer for connections.
02Remove the door and hinges (adds ~2 inches). If still too tight, check if the door frame trim can be temporarily removed (adds another 1–1.5 inches). As a last resort, some homeowners widen a laundry room doorway — a standard reframe costs $200–$500.
03Related guides
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